Sewing Machine YDK Universal Foot Control Pedal - Will Fit Brother, Singer, Janome, Toyota & More Sewing Machines

This was a replacement for a pedal on an old (1970s) sewing machine. I am fairly sure that the actual problem I had was only the capacitor in the old pedal as the machine was running on at full speed - however it just seemed as good an option to replace the entire pedal unit (I may swap the capacitor in the old one at another time, just didn't have time to be hunting around for individual components and the original pedal was also a bit tatty and held together with tape!).These are reasonably well made pedals and you will find lots of information on here and other places on the net about wiring them etc, but I just wanted to say that for the price and ease of just buying a new pedal this worked a treat for me. These work on the "switched" live wire and see the review on here with the pics that tell you how to do it...I followed that one and it was all fine (although I have a fair bit of experience with this type of stuff anyway).I brought mine from Couling Sewing Machines and their service was absolutely excellent as I ordered over the bank holiday weekend and it still came within two days - way quicker than the listing! Thanks Couling!Totally recommend this to anyone who needs a generic foot switch for their machine! Good luck :-)

Very good value for money! One gripe was the lack of instructions... I had to look it up online. However, having the original plug to the machine and lead meant it was easy once you figured out where the wires went! There’s a definite right and wrong way to do it!Only one speed but that’s fine... a very good robust replacement foot ... mine was for a New Home XLII that no one does a wired Foot with that plug connection for! Definitely UNIVERSAL!Needs instructions though... electricity has the potential to be lethal no matter how good the product is! Maybe was just omitted from my parcel!

I bought this bare foot control so that I could keep the existing cables and, in particular, the plug that connects it to the machine. The controller is a simple rheostat, works well and is replacing an electronic unit that only gave "Off" or "Full Speed".

The rheostat had failed on my mums old 60's Singer. It sat there un used for a decade then I bought this pedal and now its working and the start speed is slower than the original which is an improvement. Reasonably easy to fit but the crimp connectors are very small and I would like to see lager crimps and a larger copper tabs on the pedal to attach too. That is why I docked it a Star. The two central screws attach the electrics to the pedal case and the power cord attaches on the end with the supplied crimp connectors. I had to snip off the soldered on ring connectors on the original cord. These large rngs inspired more confidence than the small crimps but they will probably hold.

The listing doesn't mention that if your machine has a separate power cable and foot cable, this is not a suitable fix. I had to find that info, in all caps, on an external site. This is my job, and I'm delayed several days now.

Bought this as a replacement pedal for a very old Singer.Relatively easy to fit - not much harder than wiring a plug. You do need to crimp the tab connectors, but this can be done with a pair of pliers if you don't have a crimping tool.The pedal itself is very solidly constructed with a thick plastic body. It functions better than the old pedal - finer control and doesn't rush away when starting up.

This is a nice sized and robustly made pedal. The plastic is hard and similar to bakelite. The shell is around 3mm thick. This was a major consideration for me as a foot pedal takes some punishment. Mine arrived with all the parts present -well packaged and with the bottom plate detached.This is a breeze to fit. No worries, simple and logical.Three pins sewing machine leads have two positve pins and one negative, in many cases the centre one. One positive is permanent feed for the light - if it came on with the pedal wouldn't that be fun!!! The other pin comes from the pedal, or to be more accurate it is a 'switch lead' ( I'm a qualified electrician). The pedal is a single wire - single pole switch, the same method as used on most domestic lighting.On the photo, with no lead attached, on either side of the green capacitor the outside two gold tabs are the terminals for the two wires of your switch lead - the cable from the old pedal. Some may require desoldering from your dead switch and moving across, but many already have spade connectors in place and just require swapping. The grey box is from a Brother x5 and shows the simple set up. Because it is a switch lead and not a true pos and neg supply it should not matter which way around - it is just closing the circuit. On the final photo you can see where I've cut back the plastic cable cover where it enters the pedal - its only for aesthetics/neatness - but the leads now swapped over are clearly in place.After that just reroute the cable and affix the base plate - Job done. It looks like it belongs to the machine.For those who need guidance remember not to work on this item when still plugged in. Don't laugh I saw somebody do just that!Long nosed pliers would be useful for the connectors and a Phillips 2 to close the case and the cable clamp.

Brilliant pedal - better than the original that came with my Brother Machine but ZERO wiring instructions or even a link to instructions which is poor.If you buy this, DO NOT wire to the two big silver screws that look like the logical connection.On the back face of the ceramic block, there are small copper lugs to left and right of the two wires already attached in the pedal. Put the included clips onto your existing wires, crimp with pliars and slide onto the lugs. Doesn't matter which way round.If the machine runs slow (as mine painfully did) looses the two silver screws and move the ceramic block as far forward as you can, then re-tighten.