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KIPA Trailing Arm Bushings for Civic CR-V CRX, Replace OEM Part Number 52385-SR3-003

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Product ID: 151954909
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kipa
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About the item

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  • KIPA Pack-2 Superior quality Aftermarket Trailing Arm Bushings. The metal is heavier and sturdier. Changing the trailing arm bushing is not easy, but doable for a capable home mechanic. This job will save you hundreds over having a shop do it. It's manufactured professionally, Each sets are strictly tested again and again in the factory machines. Durable for your vehicle..
  • MPN: Replace for OEM Part Number 52385-SR3-003.
  • Fitment: Replace for 1994-2001 Acura Integra, 1988-2000 Honda Civic, 1997-2001 Honda CR-V, 1988-1991 Honda CRX, 1993-1997 Honda Del-Sol,.
  • Affordable, reliable and built to last, KIPA Bushings are your prime online source with the biggest and best selection. Trailing arm bushings are one of those things that does its job in silence. And unless they are making squeaks or groans we really don't pay much attention to them.
  • Their condition is critical for rear axle alignment. Cracked, split or oil soaked bushings will give away causing you all sorts of problems. If your bushings are not working well, Change it, Easy to go, You could find the simple manual in the following description..
  • ›See more product details.
1. With the threaded rod technique what you're doing is building a small press to push the old bushing out and pull the new one in. To remove the old bushing, arrange the rod and pipe. The two nuts on the end of the rod are locked by tightening against each other. The one on the end is called a jam nut, this prevents the rod from turning here 2. Apply some grease or oil to the threads and select a socket to push the bushing out. Peter suggests a 5/8” socket is just right. May use a deep socket; it was the same length at the bushing. You will want the drive end of the socket pushing up against the bushing tube. Stack a few 7/16” washers over the socket and add the nut. 3. Here is a close up of the socket. Make sure there is enough meat on those washers so the nut doesn't cave into the socket. Same goes for the pipe end also. 4. Start tightening the nut on the left to push the bushing out. You may need a backup wrench to hold the other side and prevent the rod from turning. 5. It should only take a couple of minutes and the bushing will be out. How the bushing looks when it's extracted. 6. Examine the bore where the bushing was. If it has corrosion on the inside of mine that needed to be cleaned out with a die grinder to make smooth again. 7. Arrange the pipe and threaded rod with the new bushing. The collar on the bushing faces outward on both arms so you should only be pushing towards the center. The use of the socket is optional but it would be a good idea to at least have a washer there so the bushing has even bearing. 8. Start cranking and send it home.
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