BOSCH 0261230238 Original Equipment Fuel Pressure Sensor - Compatible with Select Volvo C30, C70, S40, S60, S80, V50, V60, V70, XC60, XC70, XC90

This thick skull tried saving a few bucks on marble-filled sensors with about a 50% fail rate. I just buy Bosch now. Works every single time. I save a few bucks now buy buying universals and splicing in my connectors, but will never skimp on sensors now - wasted a ton of time with other knockoffs (install, remove, return.)

El sensor funciona perfectamente como reemplazo del original, manda señales muy precisas al computador de la camioneta optimizando la mezcla aire combustible.

For the price there is no reason not to go with OEM Bosch. drop in replacement for 2009 volvo c70. quick fix for intermittent high pressure reading resulting in CEL and misfire. easy DIY swap, just 3 screws and you're done.

My 2005 Mercedes 230C failed smog inspection for the first time by .01% (the lowest fail percentage). Although the car ran fine, the "Check Engine" light had been on for a few months.After checking online for the "Fail Codes" listed on the Smog Test receipt, the codes pointed to the "Downstream o2 Sensor (Oxygen Sensor)" making the fuel mixture too rich. So I called a local Smog Repair shop and I was qouted $220 dollars to replace the part. My former brother in law who had his own auto repair shop told me long ago that mechanics get a 50% discount off list price of new parts, but always put the list price on your bill. So I ordered the part from Amazon, and had my local independent mechanic install it. I saved 70% from the original smog repair quote by doing it this way.This Bosch 15733 Oxygen Sensor came in Bosh box and with a Universal Connector plus Wiring Instructions. I think any weekend mechanic could handle the job within a few hours but.... I am getting too old to climb under a car anymore. The replacement requires Auto Lifts, a standard Open End Wrench, and Wire Crimping Tool. In my case the Universal Connector supplied Did Not Match the one on my car, so splicing the 4 wires to the original factory connector was required. The 4 wires consist of 2 signal and 2 grounds, and had the same color codes as my original wires. Once removed, the O2 Sensor appeared to have a small amount Black Soot around the base of part as a result of running too rich. After installation the "Check Engine" light went off.The one thing that I havn't seen in the Amazon Reviews is that my mechanic had to Re-Set the Car Computer. He also told me I had to drive 60 Miles More so that the car computer could re-evaluate the "New o2 Sensor" in full cycle. If you re-test right away, you will FAIL the Smog Test. This is because the car computer retains the old sensor data plus adds the new sensor data, and averages them both until the car computer re-sets again in 60 miles. After that I had the Smog Station re-test my car, and Pass it did.IMPORTANT: On my car there are both "Upstream" and "Downstream" o2 Sensors. Make sure you Evaluate The Smog Test Fail codes carefully and Order The Correct Failing Sensor.I hope my review helps, you Do It Yourself-ers should Save Even More!

Works as described and intended. Car had some misfiring issues, especially when cold started. This fixed the problem and car has been running great and code-free for over a month now.

Nicely fit and works

Exactly what I needed to splice my O2 sensors

Replacing either of the "upstream" heated o2 sensors (= lambda sensors) looks to be and should be a pretty easy job on most N51 or N52-powered BMW cars. You should remove the plastic engine cover and the whole cabin air filter/cowl covering, but that's about all it takes to get access to the rear bank o2 sensor that sits just below a little metal shelf/cover of sorts. The wiring for both sensors wraps around back of the valve cover and joins two connectors on top of it.I spent way too much time trying to remove that little metal cover just above the bank 2 o2 sensor because of a tiny rusted bolt (E8 Torx) caused by 17+ years of heat and exposure. Eventually I just bent the cover upward enough to allow an offset-style o2 sensor socket to slip past it with the cable in it and I was able to unscrew the bad upstream o2 sensor easily.With the little cover out of the way, the whole job should take you less than an hour to replace one, or maybe even both of these sensors on the N52 engine. The new sensor has some appropriate anti-seize on its threads already. After you install it/them, reset your diagnostic codes and you're on your way - my last one lasted 150,000 miles.